Three Days, Three Toddlers and Spencer Glacier in Alaska (With Video)

Three days, 3 toddlers and an Alaska glacier. What could go wrong?

Iceberg at Spencer Glacier Lake

Spencer glacier just off Alaska’s Turnagain Arm, is a perfect taste of the Alaska backcountry without feeling too committing. Accessed from a whistle stop off the Alaska railroad and an easy one mile hike, it is close and convenient yet stunning with its sheet of wrinkled ice and broad lake dotted with gleaming icebergs. It seemed ideal for a first backpack trip with a three year old.

But as we set off into the wild, I felt a growing unease about the things that could go wrong. Even though Spencer is close to the most populous part of the Last Frontier, it still is, well, the Frontier. Were we putting our daughter in danger just by bringing her to a place like this? Were we setting ourselves up for misery and failure? The next three days would tell.

Our journey started at the Portage Train depot where the three of us and some friends boarded the steaming, blue and gold Alaska railroad. It was my daughter’s first train ride and her eyes filled with wonder as we rolled into the forest. It was a short trip to the whistle stop, and once we left the crowds behind, a hush fell over the landscape.

It was a wet, chilly night. After a soggy breakfast the next morning, we settled on a hike around the lake for a better view of the enormous glacier, and its many icebergs.

After lunch, the rain tapered just enough to inflate the boats and head out the water.

It’s humbling to float through the maze of blue ice. They stand like frozen, dynamic sculptures. We drifted in the calm water, trying to decide what animals they resembled. The challenges of endless rain and sleepless nights with a toddler washed away.

Sometime during the night, the blanket of clouds tore apart. The morning air was crisp and calm. The lake surface mirrored the sky above. It was perfect for photography and for another paddle.

Day pressed on. The yellow sun quickly felt hot. We basked in warm of a perfect Alaska afternoon.

When the time came for the short hike out,  we left all our challenges and fears behind. Without questions, it was all worth it.

 

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