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| Paddling Resurrection River near Seward, AK |
This is the life of a river… Ice to Ocean.
Our Alaska packrafting adventure started at the Exit Glacier trailhead in Kenai Fjords National Park. Exit Glacier is one of about 40 glaciers spawned from the Harding Icefield, a massive sheet of ice that covers roughly 1,000 square miles. That’s about the size of Rhode Island. Our destination was the toe of the glacier, where Exit Creek emerges from under the ice and, like us in our packrafts, begins its tumble downhill.
We used to put-in much closer to the glacier, but a sudden glacier outburst flood of Exit Glacier June 14, 2021 sent a wall of water charging through the narrow gorge, re-arranging the channel and prompting the park service to close the canyon. It’s hard, as we spread our gear over glacial moraine, not to look up at the wall of ice and imagine seeing that rushing chocolate water and tumbling mass of boulders bearing down on us.
After the first set of crux rapids, we settled in to rhythm of this river. Dodging sharp rocks, logs and brush, and always being alert for the deepest channel to avoid running aground.
After two and half miles, Exit Creek spills into Resurrection River and we continued downstream with triple the flow.
The next six miles were much the same, only on a larger scale. Braided islands and swift corners punctuated by occasional small rapids. Though the river is tame, the setting is incredible. Towering mountains leap skyward, crystalline cascades pouring down their jagged faces. Glaciers cling to the highest alpine rungs despite the apex of summer. It is, in a word, inspiring.
At mile 9 we passed the lowest takeout I’d ever used. From here down we were entering the unknown. Well not exactly. This was the most industrial and urban part of the river. Our route took us through a gravel pit, under a busy highway and alongside the runway of a small airport. But eagles lounged on the riverbank, scouting for salmon. Busy helicopters circled towards the alpine cirques.
Ahead, the stream was opening up. And we knew the ocean was near.
We suspected paddling our lightweight Alpacka packrafts on Alaska's Resurrection Bay would be a challenge. We were not wrong. The mile-long paddle was slog across shallow mudflats, angling into a south wind, as small breakers lapped over our gunwales. At times it felt like we were making no progress. But eventually, somehow, we washed ashore just fifty feet from the car.
Ice to Ocean. We’d packrafted fourteen miles, 13 by river and one by sea. We’d sniffed out the river source, and saw it all the way to its mouth. We’d descended 700 feet and navigated countless swift corners and braided channels. My vision of a dynamic day adventure had come true.
Watch video documentary here:
